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Terms, Stores, and Reviews about
Posts by Sam
The easiest way to buy a mechanical keyboard is to go for one that’s in stock. These are usually more affordable keyboards and are readily available in stores. You can find them on Marketplaces like Amazon, AliExpress or from major brands such as Epomaker, Akko, or Keychron. These keyboards are typically considered beginner-friendly, though there are exceptions, such as Luminkey or Omnitype, which offer high-quality keyboards for advanced users that are often in stock and easy to order.
Group Buy – The Good, the Bad and What You Need To Know
If you truly want to dive deep into the mechanical keyboard hobby, you should explore the world of Group Buys. This is a unique system where true keyboard enthusiasts purchase custom keyboards and keycap sets through group orders. These products are only available for a limited time, and typically, it’s a one-time offer — if you miss the Group Buy, you’re out of luck. In some cases, highly successful keyboards or keycaps might return for another round (you’ll see R2 or R3 next to the product name, indicating a second or third run).
The process begins when a designer or manufacturer checks for interest in their product using a form called an IC (Interest Check), shared in enthusiast forums and groups worldwide. If enough people express interest, the manufacturer launches a Group Buy, where customers can place orders and pay upfront. Only after sufficient funds are raised does production begin — a process that can take a long time, sometimes months or even over a year, before the product reaches buyers.
The advantage of Group Buys is that you can own something truly unique, but the downsides are the long wait and the uncertainty about how the final product will turn out—or whether it will even be produced at all (there have been cases where manufacturers went bankrupt and couldn’t deliver the products).
To stay updated on new Group Buys, bookmark websites like Geekhack and GroupBuy Nation, which host active forums filled with information on current and upcoming buys. Another great resource is the r/mechanicalkeyboards subreddit. Following content creators on YouTube, such as Kirin, who regularly release videos summarizing the latest Group Buys, is also recommended.
Products purchased through Group Buys often have an active aftermarket, where people are eager to buy second-hand keyboards or keycap sets. These items can sometimes sell for higher prices than their original cost due to their demand and rarity. So, if you miss a Group Buy, you may still find the product second-hand — but be prepared to pay a premium.
For many, mechanical keyboards are not just functional tools but a true hobby. Beyond the comfortable typing experience and satisfying tactile feedback, enthusiasts care deeply about their keyboard’s appearance — and especially its sound. While you can use a keyboard straight out of the box, in many cases the typing experience might feel basic, and the sound might not be ideal — hollow, harsh, echoey, or simply unpleasurable. To enhance both typing comfort and sound, there’s a wide range of improvements, or Mods (short for modifications), you can apply to tailor the keyboard to your preferences.
Don’t be intimidated by the long list — feel free to pick and choose which mods appeal to you, or skip this section entirely. It’s worth noting that many modern keyboards, especially those priced at $70–$80 and above, already come with most of these mods pre-installed, so additional manual work might not be necessary.
Case modding
Whether your case is made of plastic or metal, if it’s too hollow, the sound of keystrokes can bounce off the sides and bottom, creating an unpleasant, often loud, echo. The solution is to add sound-dampening materials to the bottom of the case. You can use almost any material you can think of, with the thickness and density of the material affecting the resulting sound. Common materials include EVA foam, Polyfil, Poron, or silicone. Most keyboards these days come with pre-included foam kits, but you can always experiment with different materials, remove some layers, or add others until you achieve your desired sound profile.
Force Break Mod: This popular mod is designed for keyboards with metal cases. If the top and bottom parts of the case make direct contact without any insulation, it can create an unpleasant metallic “ping” sound during typing. The solution, despite its dramatic name, is quite simple: add a few layers of insulating tape (such as electrical tape) at strategic points between the case parts. This creates the necessary isolation and significantly reduces or even eliminates the ping sound entirely.
Plate and PCB Modding
As mentioned earlier, the material of the plate significantly affects both the keyboard’s sound profile and typing feel. If your keyboard came with a plate that’s too stiff or too soft for your liking, or you want a different sound signature, the solution is to replace the plate with one made of a different material. Not all keyboards have alternative plates available, so if swapping plates is important to you, make sure the model you’re considering offers compatible options for purchase.
PE Foam: Between the plate and the PCB, most keyboards include a layer of foam to improve acoustics. Many users choose to replace this foam with one or two layers of PE foam — a thin, white foam often used in packaging for electronics and appliances, which can also be purchased separately. PE foam is known for producing a distinctive, desirable creamy sound that many enthusiasts seek.
Tape Mod: This popular, simple, and effective mod involves applying up to three layers of painters tape to the underside of the PCB. Be sure to cut out openings where needed, such as for the cable connection to the USB port or battery (if present). This straightforward modification results in a more focused and deeper typing sound.
Stabilizers Modding
Stabilizers are one of the keyboard components that almost always require attention, as they rarely come optimized from the factory. Due to their moving parts, metal-to-plastic contact, and their interaction with the plate or PCB, they often produce unwanted rattling or ticking sounds that can be difficult to eliminate.
If you’re working with a budget keyboard that has low-quality stabilizers, you might want to replace them entirely with a high-quality set from brands like Durock, C³ Equalz, TX, Owlabs, or others. Even with new stabilizers, it’s essential to perform at least some modding to ensure they perform and sound their best.
Lubing: To eliminate dry, noisy friction between components, you’ll need to lube the stabilizers using a thick, long-lasting lubricant that won’t evaporate or degrade quickly. The process typically involves lightly brushing the inside of the plastic housings and applying a generous layer of grease to both ends of the stabilizer wire where it inserts into the housings. Popular lubricants for this purpose include Krytox 250G0 for general lubing and Dielectric Grease for the metal wire.
Holee Mod: For slightly more advanced users looking to minimize rattling as much as possible, the Holee Mod involves cutting a thin strip of medical tape and using tweezers to insert it inside the stabilizer housing. This acts as padding, adding a soft layer between the plastic and metal components. While this method is highly effective, some users report that the tape may wear down over time and require replacement.
Stabilizer Padding: This relatively simple mod is specifically for screw-in stabilizers. It involves applying small adhesive pads around the screw holes where the stabilizers are mounted. This prevents direct contact between the stabilizers and the PCB, adding extra dampening and potentially improving the sound.
Clipping the Stem Feet: On some stabilizers, the back of the stem (the part that touches the PCB or plate when typing) has tiny protruding feet that can cause unwanted ticking sounds. Most modern stabilizers no longer have these feet, as the stem ends are flat, but if they do, you can carefully clip them off with scissors.
Switches Modding
Beyond the simple option of swapping out your keyboard’s switches for a set with a different typing feel or sound, you can enhance your existing switches as well. The two main methods for this are Lubing and Filming, often referred to together as L+F.
Lubing: Lubing is a time-consuming and meticulous process, especially if your keyboard has a lot of keys, but the results are absolutely worth it. Each switch is opened with a specialized tool, and the following steps are performed: Lightly lube the bottom housing’s interior, lube the stem for smoother motion (commonly done with Krytox 250G0), and then Lube the springs using a “bag lube” method: place the springs in a small plastic bag, add a few drops of Krytox GPL 105, and shake vigorously to coat them evenly.
Once reassembled, the switches will have noticeably smoother motion, free of scratchiness, along with a deeper, more pleasant sound profile.
If you don’t have the patience or equipment needed to lube your switches, you can purchase factory-lubed switches instead. Nowadays, brands like BSUN and HMX offer excellent pre-lubed switches at affordable prices.
Filming: Before reassembling your lubed switch, you can insert a thin film made of foam or another material between the top and bottom housings of the switch. This tightens the fit, prevents unwanted wobbling of the stem, and further enhances the sound.
Frankenswitch Mod: Like Frankenstein’s monster — but in a good way — this involves combining parts from different switches to create a new, custom switch. This mod is ideal for advanced or professional enthusiasts who are familiar with their switches’ properties and can design a new switch tailored to their preferences by mixing and matching components.
Accessories and add-ons
Many enthusiasts don’t settle for just their keycap set, no matter how refined or stylish it may be, and often add Artisan keycaps — uniquely designed keycaps intended purely for aesthetic purposes, rather than functional use.
The keyboard cable is another important detail. If a plain black or white USB cable doesn’t satisfy you, you might consider investing in a coiled cable. These cables are significantly more expensive than standard ones and come in a wide range of colors, finishes, and materials to complement your keyboard setup.
Wired, Wireless Keyboard and Connection Type
Like standard keyboards, mechanical keyboards can be either wired-only or wireless. Most wired keyboards feature a USB-C connection, allowing you to use a cable of your preferred length and design. Only very budget-friendly models come with permanently attached cables. Wired keyboards are typically the natural choice for gamers, who need every millisecond of advantage over their opponents and often avoid wireless devices due to the slight latency that may occur between a keypress and the corresponding action. It’s worth noting that most wireless keyboards can also connect to a computer via cable as needed.
Wireless keyboards can support Bluetooth (make sure your computer is compatible) or a 2.4GHz wireless connection, which uses a dedicated dongle included in the package. Some keyboards support both connection types. Speaking of dongles, certain keyboards include a built-in compartment for storing the dongle when not in use — a helpful feature since these small devices have an annoying tendency to get lost.
Internal wiring
When building a custom keyboard, you’ll eventually need to connect the PCB to the Daughterboard (the part containing the keyboard’s USB-C port), and in wireless keyboards, also to the battery or battery pack inside the keyboard. This connection is typically made using JST cables or thin ribbon cables — and let me tell you, it’s not exactly fun to plug these in while ensuring you don’t accidentally pull them out when assembling the keyboard.
Some of the newer keyboards now feature magnetic connections on the PCB and the bottom case, eliminating the need for internal wiring. You simply place the PCB on the case, and the magnetic contacts establish an instant connection. If you plan to frequently change your keyboard’s configuration to experiment with sound or feel using different components, consider opting for a keyboard with such a magnetic internal connection.
Gaming Compatibly
If you’re a gamer or a high-speed typist, you might want to consider an HE (Hall Effect) keyboard, which we covered in the Switches chapter. If you prefer classic switches, make sure the keyboard supports NKRO (N-Key Rollover). This means the keyboard can register input from each key independently, so even if you press all the keys simultaneously, every press will be registered without conflicts. If there’s a limit to the number of simultaneous keypresses the keyboard can handle, it will be specified as a number instead of “N.” For example, 6KRO means the keyboard can register up to six keys at the same time.
Another spec you’ll often find in gaming-focused keyboards is the Polling Rate, which measures how many times per second the keyboard communicates with the computer’s operating system. This is measured in hertz (Hz), so a rate of 1000Hz means the keyboard updates the computer 1000 times per second, theoretically giving you a slight advantage in response time.
That said, don’t put too much emphasis on polling rate, as almost all standard keyboards are fast enough for any task, including gaming.
RGB and Underglow Lighting
RGB lighting is, of course, the hallmark of gaming keyboards, but it’s also found in many standard mechanical keyboards. Most keyboards support per-key lighting, while some also feature underglow lighting around the edges or on the bottom of the keyboard, projecting light onto your desk.
I’ve already mentioned the importance of PCB orientation for key lighting, but it’s also worth noting that keyboards differ in the number of colors supported, lighting effects, and especially brightness. If lighting is important to you, it’s a good idea to research these features before purchasing your keyboard.
As discussed in the keycaps chapter, to maximize lighting effects, you can opt for Pudding keycaps or Shine-Through keycaps, which allow more light to pass through for a more vibrant display.
Software And Settings
Most mechanical keyboards allow you to adjust lighting, remap keys, and set macro commands using compatible software. Typically, this software is provided by the manufacturer, but it’s often not very advanced or easy to use.
The gold standard in the industry is VIAL/VIA and QMK software, widely regarded as the best for their ease of use and flexibility. These web-based interfaces offer advanced customization options, including macros, key remapping, command assignments, lighting control, and more, and they don’t require any app installed on your computer. Keyboards that support these programs usually highlight it prominently in their product descriptions.
Aside from the case, the keycaps are the most visually striking part of a keyboard and play a major role in its final design. Even if your keyboard doesn’t support easy switch replacement (Hotswap), you can always remove the keycaps and replace them with a different set to refresh the look of your keyboard.
ABS or PBT?
Keycaps for mechanical keyboards are typically made from one of two types of plastic: ABS or PBT.
ABS keycaps are often favored for the sound profile they help produce. The leading brand in the field, GMK, exclusively manufactures ABS keycaps. Additionally, the double-shot molding process, which embeds the legends (letters or numbers) as a separate layer of plastic, is easier to achieve with ABS. However, ABS keycaps have a significant drawback — they tend to wear down over time, developing a shiny, greasy-looking layer on the surface.
PBT keycaps have a “dry,” slightly textured feel compared to ABS, offering more grip and resisting the shine associated with wear. They typically retain their original texture over time. Nowadays, many companies are able to produce high-quality double-shot PBT keycaps, so there’s no shortage of vibrant color options and sharp legends in PBT sets. While budget keycaps are often made from PBT, some high-end PBT keycaps deliver exceptional sound profiles that rival those of ABS.
Beyond ABS and PBT, there are niche keycap sets made from materials like ceramic, rubber, wood, or even metal. However, these are rare and generally don’t offer great usability or sound quality.
When choosing keycaps, consider their thickness. Thin keycaps produce a more hollow and high-pitched sound, whereas thicker keycaps enhance the sound with a deeper, richer tone. A thickness of 1.5 mm is considered ideal for most use cases. Keycaps with a thickness of 1.7 mm or more create a deeper “thocky” sound but may not be compatible with all switches. Make sure to verify that your switches can accommodate thick keycaps before purchasing.
Profile, Legends, and Design
Keycaps come in a variety of shapes that differ in height, the height variation between rows, the curvature or concavity of the top surface, and overall form. The most popular profiles are OEM and Cherry, with Cherry being slightly shorter. Other profiles include XDA (uniform height for all keys), SA, MDA, DSA, MT3, and more. The differences between profiles primarily affect typing comfort, which is subjective, but they can also slightly influence the sound. Cherry is by far the most popular profile.
When it comes to the legends (the letters and symbols on the keycaps), the preferred method is double-shot molding, as mentioned earlier. In this process, the keycap is first molded without the legend, and then a second layer of plastic in a different color is injected to form the legend. This results in extremely sharp, durable legends. For keyboards with multiple languages, you may encounter the term triple-shot, which refers to each part of the keycap being molded separately with different colors of plastic.
A simpler and more affordable method is dye sublimation (Dye Sub). In this process, solid ink is converted into a gas through heat and pressure, bonding it to the plastic so the color becomes part of the keycap material rather than sitting on the surface. Dye sublimation can produce good results, though the printed legends are generally less sharp than those achieved with double-shot molding.
If backlighting matters to you, you might prefer keycaps where the legends aren’t molded but rather etched into the keycap and covered with a clear layer, allowing light to shine through the etching. These are known as Shine-through keycaps, which are especially common on gaming keyboards. Another option is Pudding keycaps (don’t ask me where the name comes from), where not only the etched legend shines, but the entire lower half of the keycap is made from a translucent material, making the keyboard’s lighting much more prominent. While these keycaps offer a visually striking lighting effect, they are generally considered inferior in terms of material quality and the sound they produce.
It’s worth mentioning that beyond the universal legends for letters, numbers, and symbols, many keycap sets include additional caps with unique illustrations or icons. These are called Novelties and add a personal and artistic touch to the keyboard for those who choose to use them. In many cases, manufacturers sell the basic keycap set separately from the novelty set.
The PCB (Printed Circuit Board) is essentially the motherboard of your keyboard, housing all the electronic components and software. It includes the sockets for switches, the USB port connection, wireless communication (in wireless keyboards), and, in compatible models, RGB lighting.
Your primary decision is whether to choose a keyboard with a Hotswap PCB, which allows switches to be easily replaced without soldering, or a non-Hotswap PCB that requires soldering skills and equipment to attach the switches. I strongly recommend the first option, as it provides greater flexibility for future upgrades or modifications.
North vs. South Facing Sockets
Another, less critical choice involves the orientation of the PCB. Switch sockets can face either north (away from the user) or south (toward the user). Why does this matter? For two reasons:
Keycap Compatibility: When switches are north-facing, the keycap above them is installed on the “wrong side.” While this isn’t an issue with most keycap profiles, it can cause physical interference with Cherry profile keycaps — the most popular profile — leading to an unintended clicking sound when pressed. If the keyboard is Pre-built, it will already include compatible keycaps, so you won’t face any issues. However, if you plan to swap out the keycaps or switches later, this could become a problem.
RGB Lighting: With south-facing PCBs, the LED placement is closer to the user, resulting in slightly brighter and more prominent lighting compared to north-facing PCBs.
Lately, the majority of keyboards — even budget models — come with south-facing PCBs. There’s little reason to settle for a north-facing PCB anymore.
Board Thickness and Flexibility
PCBs are typically available in two thicknesses: 1.6 mm or 1.2 mm. A thinner PCB provides more typing flexibility, but if you opt for a keyboard with a thinner board, it’s essential to ensure the stabilizers you use are compatible with the thinner profile.
Some PCBs feature Flex Cuts — horizontal slots that add extra flexibility and contribute to a bouncier typing feel compared to regular boards. While these cuts enhance flexibility, they can also affect the keyboard’s sound profile, as sound waves pass through the slots downward.
If you plan to build your keyboard with sound-dampening foam, this won’t make much of a difference. However, if you’re aiming for a “clacky” build without foam, the flex cuts may make the sound thinner and less pronounced.
The Plate
In most mechanical keyboards, a component called the plate sits above the PCB. This plate is a sheet that matches the shape of the PCB and case, with cutouts for the switches and stabilizers. Its primary role is to provide stability, ensuring the switches are securely held in place and don’t shift.
Like every other element in a keyboard, the plate influences both the sound and typing feel. The most significant factor is the material it’s made of. Common plate materials include:
Aluminum: Affordable, strong, and rigid, providing a relatively firm typing feel and neutral sound with slightly higher-pitched tones.
Polycarbonate (PC) or Polypropylene (PP): Offer flexibility and a deeper sound.
FR4: A rigid plastic material, also commonly used for PCBs, offering a middle ground in terms of sound and flexibility.
Brass: Another rigid option, producing a deeper and louder sound compared to aluminum.
Carbon Fiber: Known for its distinctive loud, high-pitched sound profile.
Most keyboards come with a single plate, with polycarbonate being the most common material in budget models. For other materials, you’ll often need to purchase plates separately. In higher-end custom keyboard kits, multiple plates made from different materials may be included, allowing users to select their preferred option.
Plateless Build
Advanced enthusiasts sometimes opt to build a keyboard without a plate — using only switches mounted directly onto the PCB. This is a more challenging build since, without a supporting frame, the switches may detach from their sockets. As a result, plateless builds often rely on soldered PCBs instead of Hotswap sockets. A plateless keyboard can offer a very specific sound and an extremely soft, flexible typing experience, but this approach is generally recommended for experienced builders.
For standard-sized keys on a keyboard, the switch beneath the key is sufficient to activate the mechanism. However, for longer keys — such as the spacebar, Enter, Backspace, or Shift — additional support is needed on both sides to prevent wobbling. That’s where stabilizers (commonly called stabs in the keyboard community) come in.
Stabilizers can be mounted in two main ways: Plate-mounted, where they clip onto the plate above the PCB, a setup often considered less sturdy and lower quality; or PCB-mounted, where they are attached directly to the PCB using either screws (screw-in) or clips (clip-in), which provides more secure and stable performance. Budget keyboards typically only support plate-mounted stabilizers, while higher-end keyboards often support screw-in stabilizers — and in some cases, both mounting methods.
A stabilizer consists of two housings with stems inside, designed in the same MX style as switch stems, allowing for free movement within the housing. A thin metal wire connects the two housings. Stabilizer wires come in three standard sizes, corresponding to the length of the key: 6.25U or 7U for the spacebar (depending on your keyboard layout) and 2U for smaller stabilized keys.
Stabilizers are often a major pain point for keyboard enthusiasts who care about sound, as their mechanism frequently produces rattling noise caused by the contact between the metal wire and plastic housing. As a result, many enthusiasts replace the default stabilizers — especially on budget keyboards, which often include low-quality ones — with higher-quality aftermarket stabilizers.
There are also several mods and improvements that can be done to ensure stabilizers are balanced, stable, and quiet, which we’ll cover in detail in the modding section later.
The most respected stabilizer brands currently on the market include Stabies, TX, Owlabs, and C³ Equalz.
We’ve reached the most critical and exciting part of choosing a keyboard: the switches. If you’ve decided to go for a keyboard that supports hotswap functionality, you have a huge variety of switch options to choose from. Your choice won’t just determine the typing feel and comfort but will also shape the sound of your keyboard.
What Are Switches And How Are They Built?
Switches are small, independent units located beneath each key on a keyboard. They are responsible for closing the electrical circuit on the printed circuit board (PCB) when you press a key, translating the action into the desired command on your computer. Unlike traditional keyboards, where the circuit is closed using a membrane, mechanical switches have a real spring inside. This mechanism provides highly satisfying tactile feedback and the distinct, addictive click sound that many enthusiasts love.
Each switch is made up of four primary components: the bottom housing, which holds the mechanism and includes the metal leaf responsible for closing the circuit; the top housing, which encloses the switch; the spring, which determines how much force is required to press the switch and how quickly it returns to its original position; and the stem, a small piece sitting above the spring that moves downward during a keypress and connects to the keycap above it.
The quality, feel, and character of a switch are determined by several factors, with the most important being the materials it’s made of (nylon, POM, or various plastic compounds), the design and length of the spring, the presence or absence of lubrication (lube) in the internal mechanism, and how stable the stem is without wobbling. All these aspects together define the overall typing experience.
Another, less common type is the optical switch. While their structure is similar to that of a standard mechanical switch, the metal “leaf” mechanism inside is replaced by a light sensor. Instead of closing the circuit through metal contact, the circuit is completed when light is blocked. Optical switches are the fastest type available, making them particularly suited for gaming. However, they are often considered less enjoyable for everyday typing and come in a very limited variety on the market.
Finally, there are switches designed for HE (Hall Effect) keyboards. In these switches, the circuit is not closed by physical contact but by the proximity of a small magnet on the stem to the PCB. The level of proximity affects the electrical current, allowing precise control over the exact point at which a press is registered. For gamers, HE keyboards offer exceptional response times, but this comes at the expense of tactile feel and sound. If ultra-fast response times aren’t a priority for you, an HE keyboard is likely unnecessary.
Linear Or Tactile?
There are three main types of switches: linear, tactile, and clicky. Linear switches, as their name suggests, provide a smooth, consistent motion from the moment you press down to bottoming out. In contrast, tactile switches feature a slight bump partway through the press — a very satisfying feedback for those who enjoy it. Clicky switches, which also have a tactile bump, are much louder, producing a distinct high-pitched click sound upon actuation. Both linear and tactile switches come in silent versions, designed for quieter operation, making them ideal for shared workspaces or home offices where noise might disturb others.
Beyond the mechanism type, each switch is defined by the actuation force (the pressure required to register a keypress, measured in grams) and the travel distance (the distance from the start of the press to the actuation point, typically around 3-4 mm, or 1.2 mm for particularly fast switches, as well as the total distance to the bottom).
Light and fast switches typically require an actuation force of around 35 grams and are best suited for gaming. Standard switches for general typing and everyday use fall within the 45-68 gram range, while heavier switches requiring 80 grams or more are designed for those who prefer stronger resistance during keypresses.
Types, Brands and Connections
There are two main physical standards for switches: MX and Kailh. Both are compatible with most keyboards, but their opening mechanisms differ slightly. Leading switch brands include Gateron, Kailh, Durock, JWK, KTT, Tecsee, HMX, BSUN, and others. Switches are often marketed by their colors or color-themed names, such as Tangerines for orange and green switches or North Pole for clear, ice-like switches. Classic colors include red (linear), brown (tactile), and blue (clicky), but beyond these, the possibilities are endless.
Switches connect to the PCB (printed circuit board) using two small metal pins at their base, along with additional plastic pins for stability. Some switches have a total of 3 or 5 pins, so it’s crucial to ensure the switches you choose are compatible with your keyboard’s PCB.
At the top, most switches feature an MX-style stem, which resembles a small cross and connects to the keycap above it. Some switches use a Box-style stem, which includes a square frame around the stem to protect it from dust and moisture. Don’t worry — your keycaps will fit both styles without issue.
If RGB lighting is important to you, look for switches that are clear or white, as the switch color can affect the light passing through it. Additionally, some switches, like the popular WS Morandi, include a diffuser to enhance light distribution, providing a more vibrant and even illumination.
So Which Switches Are Right For Me?
For most keyboard enthusiasts, the ultimate goal is finding switches that offer the smoothest motion, minimal scratchiness in both feel and sound, and the desired sound profile — whether that’s deep, high-pitched, or quiet. Which switches will suit you best? It’s hard to say, but it’s highly recommended to try out at least the two most popular types: tactile and linear. You might even consider purchasing a switch tester kit to experiment with different options. Additionally, check out the playlist section where I update YouTube videos featuring sound tests of new keyboards and switches to help you find a sound profile that speaks to you.
Before moving on to stabilizers, a quick word about lubing (we’ll cover this in detail later). To make switches feel and sound smooth — without unpleasant scratchiness or annoying noise — it’s important that their internal mechanism is properly lubed with a dedicated grease. If you’re not up for lubing the switches yourself, look for pre-lubed options straight from the factory. While pre-lubed switches used to be rare and expensive, many brands now offer affordable switches with excellent factory lubing. Brands like BSUN and HMX are particularly known for their outstanding lubing quality.
Keyboard profile
There are two main profiles: standard keyboards and low-profile keyboards, where the switches, keycaps, and the keyboard body are as low as possible.
Low-profile keyboards can offer a good typing experience and even decent sound, but they come with limitations. The selection of low-profile switches is very limited, as is the variety of keycaps. Additionally, keycaps for these keyboards are always flat, whereas standard keyboards feature keycaps of varying heights and angled rows to improve typing comfort (more on this in the detailed chapter about keycaps).
If you need a compact, portable keyboard or simply love the aesthetics of low-profile designs, this is likely the right choice for you. For most other users, a standard-profile keyboard is probably the better option.
Case material
The case of mechanical keyboards comes in a variety of materials and designs. Most budget keyboards feature cases made of ABS or another type of plastic, with either an opaque or semi-transparent finish. Other affordable models use acrylic, a plastic material that allows some transparency and better light diffusion for RGB lighting. Higher-end keyboards usually have aluminum or other metal cases, often with an added weight that enhances the design, improves the sound profile, and increases the keyboard’s stability on the desk.
Is a metal keyboard inherently better than a plastic one? Generally, yes — but not always. High-quality aluminum keyboards often provide better acoustics and a more refined sound than plastic ones. That said, premium ABS keyboards can deliver excellent sound, while cheap metal cases might sound unpleasant.
Another factor to consider is the variety of sound-dampening materials included in most keyboards today, which can drastically affect the acoustics. As a general rule, plastic cases tend to produce a deeper thock sound, while metal cases are better for achieving a higher-pitched clack. However, this is just a rule of thumb, and the final result depends on the specific build and materials used.
Mount Style and Typing Flex
The PCB, plate, and keycaps all sit inside the keyboard case, but the way they’re mounted can vary significantly:
Top Mount and Tray Mount were historically common in standard keyboards. In these styles, the PCB and plate are screwed either to the top or bottom of the case. These mounts provide a relatively rigid typing experience with little to no flex. Tray Mount is often considered inferior in both feel and sound, while Top Mount has made a comeback recently, gaining praise for producing richer acoustics.
For a softer and more flexible typing surface, the Gasket Mount design is ideal. It uses relatively soft materials like special foam (Poron) or silicone to isolate the edges of the plate and PCB from the case, reducing vibrations and creating a cushioned feel. However, the term “gasket mount” is often used as a marketing buzzword. Some implementations fail to deliver real flex due to overly stiff gaskets or insufficient space in the case to allow downward movement of the plate. If flexibility matters to you, it’s highly recommended to check reviews of the specific model you’re interested in to ensure the mount provides the desired feel.
A similar method that was popular in the past but has declined in use is the O-ring Mount. This uses rubber or silicone rings to soften the contact between parts, such as the plate and PCB or the case and PCB. It delivers a flexible and quieter typing experience, similar to gasket mounts but with a slightly different sound profile.
Other less common mounting styles include Sandwich Mount where the plate or PCB is clamped between the top and bottom halves of the case; Leaf Spring Mount where the plate is suspended on metal arms, allowing for movement and a softer typing experience; and Spring-Based Mounts — some keyboards use actual springs beneath the plate to add flexibility.
Typing angle and feet
Budget Pre-built keyboards almost always come with adjustable feet — sometimes dual-stage feet that offer two different typing angles. On higher-end keyboards, these adjustable feet are typically absent, meaning the keyboard’s built-in angle is the only one available. Typing angles usually range from 5 to 11 degrees, so it’s worth checking which angle feels most comfortable for you.
USB Port Placement
A small aesthetic detail that matters to some users is the placement of the USB-C port. The ideal location is often at the center of the back side of the keyboard for symmetry, but on many keyboards, the port is shifted to the left or right.
Some models feature a recessed USB port, which might prevent you from using certain cables if their connector is too thick for the cutout. Other keyboards include grooves on the underside, allowing you to route the cable to the right or left, depending on your desk setup.
Standard (non-mechanical) keyboards typically come in a single layout: a central cluster of keys that includes letters, numbers, and essential function keys like Shift and Enter; a row of function keys (F keys) at the top; a cluster of arrow keys and navigation keys (Page Up, Home, End, etc.); and further to the right, a numeric keypad arranged like a calculator.
In the world of mechanical keyboards, this traditional layout is called 100% or 1800, and it’s far from the only option. There are numerous layouts of varying sizes, identified either by percentages or by key counts. These alternative layouts remove some of the keys from the full-size design to achieve a cleaner, more minimal look while also saving valuable desk space.
Aside from the full-size 100% layout — most commonly found in Pre-built gaming keyboards from mainstream brands — here are some of the most popular alternatives:
96% layout: Includes all the keys from a full-size keyboard but reduces the spacing between clusters for a more compact design.
80% or TKL (Tenkeyless) layout: Removes the number pad entirely, leaving more room on your desk.
75% layout: Skips some function keys above the arrow keys and shifts the arrow cluster closer to the main typing area for a tighter layout.
65% layout: Completely removes the top row of function keys (F1-F12) for a sleeker appearance.
60% layout: Omits both the function row and arrow keys for an ultra-compact setup.
40% layout: Strips away even more, leaving only the absolute essentials for a minimalist build.
There are also some less common layouts, like 70% layout (or FRL-TKL), short for “F-Row-Less TKL.” This layout looks like TKL but does not include the entire function row for an even more streamlined design.
Each layout has its trade-offs, balancing functionality with space-saving and aesthetics, making it easy to find the perfect fit for your preferences and workflow.
A less conventional but increasingly popular layout is the Alice layout. In this design, the keyboard is split into two halves that are angled diagonally toward each other. While it may not be the most aesthetically pleasing option, the Alice layout is considered more ergonomic and comfortable for typing, as it reduces strain on the wrists by allowing a more natural hand position. However, it does require an adjustment period for those unfamiliar with this unique design.
If you’re about to purchase your first mechanical keyboard and don’t use the number pad daily, it’s worth considering a TKL or 75% layout. These are the most beginner-friendly and popular layouts (also favored by advanced users), as they free up desk space, bringing your mouse closer without sacrificing much in terms of usability.
Ask yourself how often you use the F keys or the navigation cluster above the arrow keys. If not much — like most people — you can even go for smaller (and super popular) layouts like 70% or 65%.
ANSI or ISO?
These are the two most common keyboard layouts you’re likely familiar with. The most noticeable difference is the Enter key: in the ANSI layout, it’s wide and spans a single row, while in the ISO layout, it’s taller and takes up two rows. There are also differences in the placement of the backslash key and other smaller keys. ANSI is more common in the U.S., while ISO is predominant in Europe.
Pre-built keyboards usually support only one of these layouts. However, if you’re building a custom keyboard and want the flexibility to try both, check if the PCB and plate support ISO in addition to ANSI. Also, make sure the keycap set you buy includes ISO-specific keys, such as the unique Enter key.
Alternative layouts
You’ve probably heard of QWERTY, named after the sequence of letters on the top row of an English keyboard. This layout dates back to typewriter days (believe it or not, it was originally designed to slow down typing to prevent mechanical jams) and remains the standard for modern keyboards. But it’s not the only option. Here are two alternative layouts with small but passionate followings:
Ergo Split Keyboards: These keyboards are physically split into two separate halves, allowing you to position them on your desk at angles and distances that suit your body. This design helps users type in a posture that reduces strain on the wrists and joints, making it popular among those with wrist pain or conditions like Carpal Tunnel Syndrome. Be aware, though, that there’s a learning curve — but many say it’s worth the effort.
Ortholinear Keyboards: In these keyboards, the keys are arranged in straight, grid-like rows instead of the staggered layout seen in traditional keyboards. The goal is to offer a more natural and efficient typing experience while reducing unnecessary hand movements. However, transitioning to this layout can be challenging for anyone accustomed to standard keyboards, requiring significant practice and adjustment.
Even in more “standard” keyboards, you’ll sometimes find slightly unconventional layouts. For example, some keyboards include an extra row of keys in unique positions, or feature what’s known as Southpaw layouts — keyboards designed for left-handed users, where the number pad is placed on the left instead of the right.
Some custom keyboards even allow you to build them in either a regular or left-handed configuration, giving you the flexibility to tailor the keyboard exactly to your needs.
Control Knob (Rotary Encoder)
Some keyboards come equipped with a knob, also known as a Rotary Encoder, and in rare cases, even more than one. The knob is typically used for quick and convenient volume control, replacing the common combo of FN + F keys. In some cases, it can serve additional functions, like adjusting keyboard lighting brightness.
On certain models — though this is less common — you can customize the knob’s functionality, allowing it to perform tasks like zooming in and out, which can be especially useful for users working with graphic design software.
If you’re considering a keyboard with a knob, check which key it replaces and what you’ll be sacrificing. For instance, in some layouts, the knob takes the place of the PrtScr key or another function key, while in others, the keys are simply shifted closer together to make room without eliminating any.
