Mechanical Keyboards FAQ – Your Questions Answered

A mechanical keyboard is different from a regular one (also known as a membrane keyboard) mainly in how the switches work. In a regular keyboard, each key presses down on a single flexible membrane layer with electrical contacts underneath, and all key presses happen on the same surface – which often feels soft and less precise.

In a mechanical keyboard, each key sits on its own individual switch with a metal spring and a separate activation mechanism. This gives a unique and precise typing feel, with clear and satisfying physical feedback. Mechanical keyboards also let you choose from different types of switches, so you can match the typing feel and sound to your personal preference.

For gamers looking for the fastest possible keyboard, HE (Hall Effect) keyboards are the top choice. These switches use a tiny magnet to continuously detect how far the key is pressed, not just whether it’s on or off. The result is near-instant response, perfect for fast-paced and competitive gaming.

Regular mechanical keyboards can also be a better choice than membrane ones, thanks to their switches that offer precise feel and fast, satisfying feedback. Look out for features like NKRO, which ensures that multiple key presses are registered at the same time without errors, and the Polling Rate, which shows how many times per second the keyboard reports to the computer – the higher it is, the faster and more accurate the response. Many mechanical keyboards also come with colourful RGB lighting and effects, which are especially appealing to gamers.

Mechanical keyboards do tend to be louder than regular membrane ones, but it really depends on the type of switches and the internal dampening used in the keyboard. Clicky switches are the loudest, producing a sharp and noticeable sound with each press, while linear switches are usually much quieter. There are also silent versions of switches designed to minimise noise. Many keyboards include layers of foam or dampening material to create a deeper and quieter sound.

Mechanical keyboards do tend to be louder than regular membrane ones, but it really depends on the type of switches and the internal dampening used in the keyboard. Clicky switches are the loudest, producing a sharp and noticeable sound with each press, while linear switches are usually much quieter. There are also silent versions of switches designed to minimise noise. Many keyboards include layers of foam or dampening material to create a deeper and quieter sound.

Mechanical keyboards do tend to be louder than regular membrane ones, but it really depends on the type of switches and the internal dampening used in the keyboard. Clicky switches are the loudest, producing a sharp and noticeable sound with each press, while linear switches are usually much quieter. There are also silent versions of switches designed to minimise noise. Many keyboards include layers of foam or dampening material to create a deeper and quieter sound.

Yes, lubing switches is highly recommended for improving the typing experience. Proper lubing reduces friction between the internal parts of the switch and eliminates unwanted scratchiness or squeaky sounds. It also gives a smoother keypress and a cleaner, more pleasant sound overall.

These days, many switches come pre-lubed from the factory and offer excellent quality right out of the box (like those from HMX or BSUN), so there’s often no need to lube them manually. But if you’re using unlubed switches, taking the time to do it yourself is definitely worth the effort.

To properly lube mechanical switches, each switch needs to be opened using a dedicated tool called a switch opener. Once opened, apply a thin layer of lubricant (like Krytox 205g0) to the internal parts of the switch, mainly the walls of the bottom housing and the stem that moves up and down. The spring can be lubed using a quick method called “bag lubing” – just place the springs in a small plastic bag, add a few drops of a thinner lube like Krytox 105, and shake the bag well to coat them evenly.

After lubing, reassemble all the parts and close the switch. It’s important to work patiently and keep the lube layer thin and even, so you don’t overdo it and ruin the typing feel. The goal is to reduce friction and noise without making the switch feel heavy or sluggish.

A switch film is a thin layer of plastic or rubber that’s placed between the top and bottom parts of the switch. Its purpose is to tighten the switch housing and reduce unwanted movement, or “wobbling,” where the stem has a bit of loose play inside the switch.

Using a switch film can help improve the sound of the switch and give a more stable, precise typing feel. It’s not necessary for every switch, especially if the switch already feels solid and has little to no stem wobble. But if you notice that the stem feels too loose or shaky, a film can definitely make a difference.

On compact keyboards like 60% or 40% layouts, which skip things like function keys, arrow keys, or a numpad, you use function layers to access the missing keys. The FN key acts as a “modifier” that lets you reach shortcuts that are either pre-defined or fully programmable through the keyboard’s software.

For example, pressing FN together with the top row of letters can turn that row into function keys (F1, F2, etc.) or arrow keys. Every compact keyboard comes with its own set of predefined key combos, and in most cases, you can customise them to suit your needs. That way, you can enjoy a smaller keyboard without giving up essential functions like document navigation or number input.

The main difference between the ANSI and ISO layouts is the shape of the Enter key and the placement of a few other keys. In the ANSI layout, the Enter key is wide and sits on a single row, while in the ISO layout it’s tall and takes up two rows. ISO also has an extra key next to the left Shift, which doesn’t exist in ANSI, and the backslash key is in a slightly different spot.

ANSI keyboards are most common in the US and Israel, while ISO keyboards are more widely used in Europe. If you’re planning to switch between both layouts, it’s a good idea to check that your keyboard’s PCB and plate support both options.

The main difference between ABS and PBT keycaps is in the feel, sound, and long-term durability. High-quality ABS keycaps tend to produce a slightly higher-pitched, crisper sound that many people find desirable. PBT keycaps usually have a deeper tone and a slightly rougher texture, which gives your fingers a better grip while typing.

Another key advantage of PBT is its higher durability – ABS keycaps tend to develop a shiny, greasy look over time, while PBT keycaps are much more resistant to wear and shine. (Though to be fair, even PBT can start to show signs of wear eventually.)

First, check how many keys your keyboard has and what sizes they are. If it’s a full-size (100%) keyboard with a numpad on the right, make sure the set includes all the keys needed for that section too. Pay close attention to the bottom row (Ctrl, Alt, FN, etc.), since its layout can vary between boards and may require shorter or uniquely shaped keys. If you’re using an ISO layout, you’ll also need a set that includes the tall Enter key and the extra key next to the left Shift.

It mostly comes down to premium materials, special production techniques, and sometimes just rarity. High-end sets are usually made from high-quality PBT or ABS and use Double Shot moulding, which means the legends won’t fade or wear off over time. Many of these sets also include unique novelty keys with custom designs that add personality and style.

Are they worth the price? That depends on what you’re looking for. If you care about unique design and exceptional durability, premium sets definitely offer strong value. On the other hand, more affordable sets can still deliver a great typing experience in terms of functionality, even if the print quality or feel isn’t quite as refined.

Yes, absolutely – you can build a mechanical keyboard on your own even without any prior experience or technical background. Most keyboards today support hot-swap switches, which means you can put everything together like LEGO, with no soldering or special tools needed.

That said, it’s a good idea to read a full guide and understand the process, especially if you’re planning to build a custom keyboard. Even if you’ve never done it before, the basic steps are easy enough to learn, and you’ll end up with a satisfying, one-of-a-kind result that fits your personal preferences.

A Group Buy is a term used for a collective purchase of keyboards, keycap sets, or other custom accessories. It usually starts when a designer or manufacturer checks if there’s enough interest in a product through a form called an IC (Interest Check). If the demand is high enough, a limited-time pre-order window opens – usually for a few weeks – where anyone interested can place an order in advance.

After the order window closes, the production process begins – and it can take several months or even up to a year. The upside is that you get a unique, often one-time-only product that won’t be sold again. On the flip side, it requires patience and trust in the project, since delays are common and you might not know exactly how the final product will turn out.

Stabilisers are components placed under the larger keys on a mechanical keyboard, like the spacebar, Enter, Backspace, or Shift. Their job is to keep those keys balanced and steady when pressed, even if you hit them off-centre. It’s important to install stabilisers correctly and lube them properly before assembly to avoid unwanted rattle and ensure a smooth typing experience.

If your larger keys are rattling or making noise, the issue usually comes from their stabilisers. To fix it, you should lube the stabilisers to reduce friction between the metal and plastic parts and eliminate unwanted noise.

Another option is to use dedicated stabiliser pads or apply a mod known as the Holee Mod, which involves adding a thin layer of medical tape inside the stabiliser to soften movement and reduce noise. For an easier solution, you can simply upgrade to higher-quality stabilisers that come factory-tuned with a tighter, more precise fit.